Design and Construction: Make the pond a simple open shape and position it away from overhanging foliage. There are three methods of construction; you can cover the whole of the pond base with soil for a totally natural appearance (but this makes controlling plant spread and cleaning almost impossible), alternatively you can create planting pockets which are filled with gravel to disguise planting containers and will afford you a much greater level of control over plant spread or lastly, you can keep the pond free of soil and restrict plants to individual containers. The bottom of the pond can still be dressed with gravel and the black plant containers will not show against the pond liner.

Equipment: A pump can be used to circulate the water or to create a tranquil stream, or possibly a small water spout or fountain. A filter will not be required if the pond is properly planted.

Plants: Water plants are an essential ingredient for wildlife ponds. You should aim to have up to two thirds of the surface covered with foliage (floating plants / lily leaves etc.) at the height of the summer. Oxygenators are also important but excessive growth should be controlled. Bear in mind that native plants can be rampant and will require cutting back and thinning periodically.

Fish and Amphibians: Generally wildlife ponds do not contain fish as they will eat the larval stages of insects and other small animals and plants that are important in the food chain. We do not sell sticklebacks but they are probably the only fish that could be considered although a few goldfish will add colour and movement to the pond without being too disruptive to the environment. Frogs and newts will find their way to your pond even if you live in a built up area - again these cannot be bought commercially.